Asian noodles with shrimp are another winner. Splendid short ribs in a black pepper sauce are peppery-sweet, and cross-cut to make for easier nibbling. Several fish dumplings roll by, one with green onion and a nice spicy bite (at left), another a small patty, much like a fish cake with heavy notes of ginger. The puffy white buns here contain turkey.Īnother dumpling, a thin rice-flour wrap, holds chicken, mushrooms and ham, each flavor distinct. The pastry adds a new texture to a first-rate pork rendition. Barbecued pork, for instance, is enclosed in puff pastry instead of the slightly doughy, white buns known as char siu bao. The selection goes well beyond what we find in St. It's a daily occurrence, and at a bargain price, too. All this means that dim sum at Jing Fong is not just a weekend treat. In addition to carts that cruise almost continuously through wide aisles and past large round tables, there's a buffet line along one wall. Jing Fong's sign gives no hint that its second-floor dining room, with easy access by escalator, runs through the block, seating more than 400 people (see right), like similar establishments we've tried in Hong Kong and Vancouver. Arguments over which dim sum restaurant is best can rage for days one that we like a lot for flavor and authenticity is Jing Fong, on a narrow street in Chinatown, long a favorite area for walking and shopping, where $5 knock-off scarves and a proliferation of equally spurious handbags populate street corners, to say nothing of the abundance of Asian grocery stores. Without even leaving the island of Manhattan, there are almost too many choices, and we're told that the other boroughs, primarily Queens, offer tender, tasty competition. Anyone who loves Asian food can happily eat to glorious satisfaction in New York.
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